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Cooking: Simply and Well, for One or Many

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We don’t share your credit card details with third-party sellers, and we don’t sell your information to others. Discard any excess fat from the pan, pour the red wine vinegar on to the chop, and turn it a few times to make sure it’s evenly coated. Lay the spring onions on the hot pan to blister, turning after 3-4 minutes to blister the other side. It’s wholesome food with twists but not too much and absolutely something people who love to cook would use.

A wider, shallower cake shaped and cooked in a cast-iron skillet or frying pan is as delicious as those cooked in hatted moulds. It is as much indebted to Lee’s Dundee childhood as his years at the stove in smart Sassenach restaurants. It goes without saying that ingredients have to be top notch but these recipes make the component parts shine. Everything is do-able (although some ingredients are a bit of a challenge if you want the best quality versions and live outside the major cities), it's well written, and engaging. A beautiful book full of excellent, accessible recipes many of which have become staples in my household.Alongside contemporaries such as Fergus Henderson, of St John, Lee takes as much credit as anyone for the extraordinary flourishing in our national cuisine over the past few decades. When Jeremy Lee received the very first copy of his new cookbook from his publishers, he immediately threw it in a drawer, then cycled from his home in east London to get on with his day at Soho’s Quo Vadis, where he is chef-patron. The word "classic" is used far too often to describe stuff nowadays but, in this generation of a million new cookbooks out every day (it seems), this will rise to the top and always be remembered.

As anyone who has seen him laugh and charm his way through the room at Quo Vadis would expect, Lee is as generous in prose as he is when talking about the book, heaping praise on the close team who helped bring it all together. Warm, gregarious, solicitous, the very life and soul, this irrepressible Scotsman has endeared himself to generations of lucky London diners, first at Terence Conran’s Blueprint Café in the Nineties and Noughties, and for the past decade at the Hart brothers’ magnificent revival of the landmark Quo Vadis, on Dean Street in Soho. Served with cream, ice-cream and custard, this is very good in those last days of winter when a treat is often much needed. Pork chops - so simple and so delicious; devilled kidneys - sumptuous; tomato salad; simplicity itself. Anybody who has seen Jeremy Lee judge on the Great British Menu, or on one of his other rare TV appearances will know him to be a great raconteur, in addition to being a great cook.God knows that this kind of thing is standing on the shoulders of the great and the many,” he says, gesturing to the shelves on all walls of his home. Lee hastens to add that at least it didn’t take 20 years to put together, like Alan Davidson’s Oxford Companion to Food.

Place the tart on a wire rack over a tray to catch any butter that may fall from the tart while baking. A beautifully written instant classic that is every bit as exuberant and delicious as the man himself! This is British mostly hearty and comforting food and will definitely go on my ‘to cook from’ shelf rather than the reading shelf or worse the re-gifting shelf! I had several such soup spoons, heavy EPNS jobs, knocking around at home - relics of long lost cutlery sets I imagine - so I use them when I am cooking one of these recipes.

The book, Cooking: Simply And Well, For One or Many, was the result of many years of work, on and off, and he wasn’t quite ready to face its reality. Lee and friends shot the photographs for the book at his home, for a true reflection of his cooking – the chocolate tart is a little spilled, the pastry a little blond, the plates and cookware his own. The chop goes wonderfully with so much, from olive oil, mash or potato and celeriac gratin to green beans, asparagus, peas, courgettes, Jerusalem artichokes or chicory. Place a potato slice in the centre of the skillet and lay the rest of the slices around, overlapping. It is one of the best cookery books that I have ever read, it’s right up there with Elizabeth David.

A striking dish with the pale green sauce pooled in the plate, contrasting with the delicate silvered skin of the hake.

The book is arranged with a chef’s eye for ingredients, and favourite things to eat throughout the seasons, rather than in courses or meals. Sit this upon the gentlest heat and warm until the shallots have softened and the anchovies have melted.

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